How To Tuck Point Chimney

Required Tools

• Hammer
• Mason's Chisel
• Mason's Trowel
• Jointer Tool
• 4 1/2" Grinder
• 4 1/2" Cutting Wheel
• Spray Bottle
• Plastic Bucket
• Tuck Pointing Mortar
• N95 Dust Mask or Respirator
• Safety Glasses
• Gloves

VIEW /BUY TUCK POINTING TOOLS HERE

Removing Old Mortar

It is possible to remove old mortar using just a hammer and chisel, but it will take you a LONG time and you will likely loosen the bricks in the process. A better option is to purchase an electric grinder (if you don't already own one) and a diamond cutting wheel designed to remove mortar.

To begin removing the old mortar from the joints I set-up my 4 1/2" grinder with a diamond cutting wheel for removing mortar.

To begin I move the grinder horizontally making one pass at the top of the joint then a second pass at the bottom of the joint. A third pass removes most of the mortar remaining in the joint.

To remove mortar from the vertical end joints I use a hammer and mason's chisel instead of the grinder. Tapping the chisel just hard enough to break the mortar, I start at the bottom of the vertical joints and work up the joint until it is clear of mortar.

After the old mortar was removed I took a garden hose and sprayed out the joints being careful not use too much water (depending on the location of your chimney water could run into your home and cause damage). Once the joints had dried I used compressed air to blow-out the remaining dust and debris. If you don't have an air compressor you can use a small stiff bristle brush or similar tool to clean the joints.

Adding Mortar to the Joints

I wasn't sure which type of mortar to use for tuck-pointing I so I went to my local Home Depot and had them suggest the correct mortar. I purchased Quikrete #1102.

On the ground I put 5 or 6 scoops of mortar mix in a 5 gallon pail then add water until the mortar is a consistency that can be squished into the joints but not so wet that it runs, or so dry that it crumbles.

I use a rectangle straight-edge trowel held upside-down to hold my mortar and a v-shaped mason's trowel to work the mortar into the joints.

Before I start adding the mortar I first mist the joints with my water spray bottle, not so much so that there is standing water but enough so that the joint is damp. When inserting the mortar I start with the vertical joints and work the mortar far into the joint. If the joint is excessively deep I insert the mortar in two layers letting the first layer dry slightly.

When adding mortar to the horizontal joints I hold my rectangle trowel (holding the mortar) slightly into the joint and push/squish mortar into the joint. When it fills up I grab a little more mortar and lift up towards the top of the joint then move the rectangle trowel away from the joint and pull some of the mortar down towards the bottom of the joint. I now have a mortar filled joint that is slightly concave. After the mortar has set-up a little I come back with a jointer tool and smooth everything out.

If the mortar becomes dry (in your pail) you can use your spray bottle of water to add some water to it. Also, if the mortar sticks to your jointer tool I've found that using your spray bottle to add a light mist of water to the jointer tool and the mortar in the joint makes it easier to work.

Suggestions

I recommend purchasing a disposable paint or chemical suit to wear while grinding out the old mortar. Grinding creates a lot of dust and your clothes will get covered with it.

I recommend that you lay down some plastic around the chimney or wall you are working on to catch any mortar that falls out as you insert it into the joint. This preventative measure will make clean-up fast and easy.